* T H E . 

IMPROVED •• DIAGRAM • SYSTEM 



Ladies' and Children's 

D RES S AND GARMENT CUTTING. 

MRS. J. G. KINSLOW, PROPRIETOR, LYNN, MASS. 



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• — — THE — — * 

IMPROVED •• DIAGRAM •• SYSTEM 



Ladies' and Children's 

D RESS AND G ARMENT CU TTING. 



MRS. J. G. KINS LOW, PROPRIETOR, LYNN, MASS. A*^wght***&S 

92.5-y tfy 

ccording to Act of Congress in the the year 1888, by Mks.J. G. Kin 
Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



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2'h.t Zmyxvvci] Bingrara §S5irm 



Ladies' and Children's Dress and Garment Cutting 

IS THE MOST PEEFECT NOW IN USE 

FOR THE FOLLOWING RKASONS: 
// is scientific in principle and easily learned, 
ft is an actual measurement system. 

Its method of measuring the farm is the must correct one. 
ft fits all forms perfectly, and requires no refitting. 
It is a complete diagram of the garment. 

Its sleeve system is easy to learn and is perfect in style and pt. 

And finally, it combines the accuracy of the Tailor, with grace and style oj the 
Dressmaker, and is in pact a combination of the best ideas of both. 



(4) 

DIRECTIONS FOR MEASURING. 

Slip the measuring-form over the left arm pointed end toward the back, and straight-edge 
underneath ; push it up close in the arm-pit with front edge of inside curve resting against the 
shoulder; while in this position, place a pin at the intersection of the points marked A; pass the 
tape from this (first) pin in a straight line to centre of back, and there place (second) pin. 
C Half, i. Measure from neck-bone to second pin. 
v ^ Length, 2. Measure from neck-bone to bottom of waist. 
■ I Width. 3. Measure from 2 inches above second pin to shoulder-edge. 

Back measures should be taken full. 

• ( Side. 1. Measure from first to second pin. 

o \ Shoulder, 2. Measure from first pin to ?ieck-bone. 
U* I Arm-Size. 3. Measure around arm close to shoulder. 
Front measures should be taken tight. 

• ( Bust, 1. Measure around the fullest part while standing behind. 
§ <j Waist. 2. Measure around the smallest part, while standing behind. 

Oi ( Hip. 3. Measure around 7 inches below waist, adding 5 inches to measure. 
Round measures should be taken close. 



(6) 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING. 



Place .square on paper, short arm to right and from you ; draw line A, then B. dot at 8 inches 
(first back measure) on line A, draw line D, dot at one-half the distance between lines D and B, then 
draw line C, dot at 16 inches (second back measure), draw line E, add 7 inches to this measure for 
skirt and draw line F. 

Place long arm of square on line D. short arm to right, dot at 5% inches (third back measure), 
draw line G, dot again on same line ( D) at \oM inches (first front measure), draw line H, dot again 
at 18 inches or one half of bust (first round measure), draw line I, add % inch, draw line J, 
add \%. inches for hem and draw line K. 

Dot at iK inches from line A on line B ; draw line from J 4 inch above dot. to a point 
(marked O) V<> inch beyond where lines C and G intersect. 

Dot at 2% inches in from line I on line C, then draw line L. The square can now be laid aside 
and measuring-form taken. Place the straight-edge of form (obverse side) uppermost diagonally 
across the pattern, from a point 1)4 inches beyond the place marked with star, to a point marked M 
on line L, which can be located when the (2d front measure) 1 1 inches intersects line L ; draw diagonal 
line from this point (M) to angle made by lines C and A; measure length of back shoulder seam, 
then mark off same length less J4 inch on diagonal line for front shoulder seam. 

Draw straight line from point M 2% inches towards front, measure down line I same distance ; 
draw curve of neck with obverse side of form from it to M ; draw slight curve from N to line J. 



7 

with reverse side of form ; draw curves of arm size from to P, in square space bounded by lines 

G. D and H. Measure arm-size opening by figures on measuring-form , and. if short of required meas- 
ure, add on the front shoulder the necessary amount to bring it up. If too long, cut off from front 
shoulder. (This measure falls short and one inch has to be added as shown in diagram.) Deduct 
one-half waist-measure (13 inches) from one-half bust-measure (18 inches), the difference will be 
j incites, which will have to be takoi up in two darts and two spaces between side seams. Placing 
i/4 inches in each dart. % inch in each space between seams V and X will contract the waist to the 
proper size. Should the amount to be taken up be more or less than 5 inches on another measure. 
alter the width of darts and spaces accordingly. 

To locate the dart- : Place the form reverse side up. straight edge along line E. painted end 
touching line J. Mark in thenar notches on edge of form, which will give the width and location 
of two 1% inch darts with % inch space between them. Should you wish a wider or narrower dart 
measure them off by 15 inch rule on other side of form, allowing same distance from line J. 
and h inch space between them. 

Make a cross exactly in the centre of each dart on line E; measure up 5 inches on line I from 

line E, run diagonal line (R) from this point to angle of line- D and A. Place straight-edge on 

'rst dart and draw straight line from line R top: place straight-edge on cross in second 

dart and draw line from R to E, that shall incline ^ inch towards hark at top of line : extend this line 

from E to P. inclining towards hack M inch at bottom. 



(8) 

To shape lower part of darts : Draw four inclined lines from dart marks to points on line F >£ inch 
each side of centre line already drawn. 

To shape zcpper part of darts : Place the mark B on inside curve of form at the top of centre 
dart lines ; draw four curved lines to dart marks on line E — two can be drawn with obverse side, the 
other two with reverse side up. 

To shape back : Dot % inch from line A on line E, run inclined line from mark to angle of lines' 
D and A, extend line down to F running- outside line A, Yz inch at bottom ; make second dot on line 
E, iii inches from first one for width of back ; dot at (S) on line G, one half distance between lines 
D and C, with reverse side of form up and pointed end down ; draw curved back line (W) ; slip the 
form % inch towards front and draw second curved line. 

Place mark T in centre of arm-size on line D, run straight line down to line F. dot at % inch 
towards back (for first space between seams), run line V back to T. 

Place mark (U) on back-curve of arm-size one-half distance between T and S ; place mark on 
line E, one-half distance between V and W ; divide the % inch space still to be taken out on each 
side of this mark and run lines X back to U. 

To form skirts : Continue line W down to F, at an opposite angle from the line ending at Y, 
continue down lines X and V at same angle. 

The three unlettered lines ending at E should be continued down to F with the slightly curved edge 
of form. The one nearest W should end near angle of lines A and F. The other two may be run 
down at about the same angle as first one. 



(9) 

Measure the different parts of the skirt along line F, deducting 2 inches for the lower part of 
darts. Should the result agree with one-half hip-measure, the skirt is correct: should it overrun or 
fall short the skirt-lines may be altered accordingly. 

The rules and directions as applied in this measure are used the same for all measures excepting 
where the person is very large or small ; then such changes may be made as will readily suggest 
themselves to one of very moderate experience in drafting. For instance: should a larger neck be 
desired, make the opening in front 3 inches wide and deep: for smaller neck make 2^ inches, 
changing the width at hack of neck accordingly. The darts may he made larger or smaller 
than i: J .» wide, or one dart not over 3 inches wide may he put in place of two. The height of them 
may he raised or lowered if the person is per) long or short vvaisted. A pattern, after being drafted. 
is not to be rut out. but is placed on the lining and a tracing wheel run over all the lines. 
lining allowing for seams outside the tracing lino : allow extra amount on side and shoulder seams : 
haste up garment and stitch in tracing lines. 

This system u,a\ be readily learned after a lesson bj teacher; by a careful study of the directions 
a- applied in the diagram and applying the same to another measure. 



do) 




DIRECTIONS FOR MEASURING SLEEVE. 



Ist — Arm. Pass the tape around arm one-half distance between elbow and shoulder, adjustir 

the measure to size sleeve should be when finished. 
2d— Hand. Measure around the open hand at knuckles including thumb, adjusting the measure 

size desired. 
3<J — Elbow. Measure from point where back seam of sleeve enters arm-size, to elbow. 
4th — Length. Measure from same place to wrist joint. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING. 



To draft outside of sleeve : Place the chart on paper straight-edge toward you, mark 
measure i 13 inches) in top row of holes, mark same measure in diagonal row of holes, mark >izc of 
hand (8 inches) in outside row of holes at bottom, mark length (22 inches) in same row of holes, 
mark same measure in notches on front edge of chart. Holding chart in same position, draw 
curved line A from bottom to point 15. slip chart over till straight-edge rest- on the two mark 
previously made. 

ine C from D to E. The mark. (E) is located by e/Jow-measure (131.. inches) in the 
notchei <■ -lip chart up till lower notch | 14) rests on point E ; with lowei curved edge 



(12) 

of chart resting on mark at hand measure, draw line F; draw line G across bottom at marks made 
for length of sleeve ; place notch 13 in top curve of chart on point B, draw top curve of sleeve to D. 
To draft inside of sleeve: Place chart on paper, straight-edge toward you, mark atrzw-measure 
(13 inches) in lower row of holes at top of chart, dot in next hole in front (12^). mark arm-measure 
(13 inches) in diagonal row of holes, mark size of hand (8 inches) in inside row of holes at bottom, 
mark length (22 inches) in same row of holes, mark same measure in row of holes marked I in 
figure four, place mark in hole J, also marks in holes at K. Slip chart over till straight-edge rests on 
marks already made, draw line C from D to E, which mark (E) is located by the elbow -measure 
(13K inches) in the notches on the straight-edge, slip chart up till lower notch (14) rests on point E, 
with lower curved edge of chart resting on mark at hand-measure draw line F. Draw line G across 
bottom at marks made for length of sleeve. With curved front edge of chart, draw line A from B to 
mark" already made in hole J. slip the chart up and extend line to bottom. Tumchart round curved- 
edge toward you. place notch in top curve on mark at B, draw line H to mark at D. Cut cloth same 
size as pattern, X inch has been allowed for seams. These rules and directions will apply to all 
measures covered by the chart. 



(>3) 

Name Xante 

Back Back 

front Front 

Round Round 

Sleeve Sleeve 



Name Name 

Back Back 

Front Front 

Round Round 

Sleeve Sleeve 

Be marks: Remar 



(i4) 




Name 


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(i6) 

Name Name . . 

Back Back . . 

Front Front . . 

Round Round . . 

Sleeve Sleeve . . 

Remarks : Remarks : 

Name : Name . . 

Bark Back . . 

Front Front . . 

Bound Round 

Sleeve Sleeve . . 

Bern arks: Remarks.: 



(i-7) 



Name . . 
Back . . 
Front . . 
Round 
Sleeve . . 
Remarks : 

Name . . 
Rack . . 
Front . . 
Round 
Sleeve . . 
Remarks 



Name . . 
Rack . . 
Front . . 
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Sleeve . . 
Remarks : 



Rack . . 
Front . . 
Round 
I Sleeve . . 
Remarks . 



Xi "" c Name . . 

Back Back . . 

Fr ° nt Front . . 

Round Round 

Sleeve /,;. 

Remarks: Remarks: 

Name Vame 

/iak Back . . 

Front Front 

Round Round . 



Remarks 



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(21) 

Name Name . . 

Back Back . . 

Front Front . . 

Round Round . 

Slcc '- C s/. 

Remarks: Remarks: 

Name Vamt 

Back /;,,,./. 

Front Front 

R """ d Round . 






5 



(22) 

Name ■ ■ ■ - 

Back 

Front 

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Sleeve 

Remarks: 

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I 

Back 

Front 

Round 

Sleeve 

Remarks: 



Name . ■ 
Back ■ ■ 
Front . ■ 
Round 

Sleeve . 

Remarks 

Name 
Back 

Front 
Round 
Sleeve . 
Remark 



'23) 

Name Name . 

Back Back . 

Front p ront t 

Round Round. 

Sleeve .s 

Remarks: Remarks 

Name Name 

Back Back . 

Front Front , 

Bound Round 

s 



Name . . 
Back . . 
Front . . 

Round 

Sleeve . . 

Remarks : 

Name . 
Back 
Front . 
Round 
Sleeve . 
Remarks 



(24) 
I Name . . 
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Remarks: 



Name . 
Back . 
Front . 
Round 
Sleeve . 
Remark 



Name . . 
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Remarks : 



Round 
Sleeve . 



Name . 
Back . 
Front . 
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Name Vame 



Back . 
J 'rout . 
Round 

N 



(26) 



Name 

Back 

Round 

Remarks : 

Name 

Back 

Front 


Name 

Back 

Front 

Round 

Sleeve 

Remarks: 

Name 

Back 

Front 





Round 

Sleeve 

Remarks: 


Round 

Sleeve 

Remarks: .... 





-'7 



Name 

Back 

I -'runt 



Name 

Back . 
Front . 
Round 

Remarks : 

Name . . 

/Jack . . 

Front . . 
Round 



Name ■ . 
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Front . . 
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Sleeve . . 
Remarks: 

Name . . 
Back . . 
Front . 
Round 
Sleeve . 



Back . . 
Fro nt . . 
Round 
Sleeve . . 
Remarks: 

Name . . 
Back 
Front , . 
Round . 
Sleeve . . 
Remarks : 



(29) 

Name Name . . 

Back ■ Back . . 

Front Front . . 

Round Hound 

Sleeve s.-. 

^marks: Remarks: 



/lack 

Front . 
Round . 



Name 
Back 

Front 



Remarks : Remarks 



(3°) 

Name Name . . 

Back Back . . 

Front Front . . 

Round i Bound 

Sleeve Sleeve . . 

Remarks : Remarks: 



Name I Name . 

Back | Back 

Front Front . 

Round Round 

Sleeve Sleeve . 

Remarks : ' Remarks 



<3 


i) 


Name 




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Front 




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(32) 



Name . . 
Back . . 
Front . . 
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Remarks : 

Name . . 
Back . . 
Front . . 
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Sleeve . . 
Remarks : 



Name . 
Back . 
Front . 
Round . 
Sleeve . 
Remarks 

Name . 
Back . 
Front . 
Round 
Sleeve . 
Remarks 



